New Ways to End Your Diesel Engine Oil Burning Problem

New engine maintenance products are ending diesel engine oil burning problems, and avoiding costly repair expense.

Here’s an introduction to a new upgrade oil change method that reduces to a minimum, or ends oil loss – chemically. And this method works without need for sticky thick additives, or heavily thickened, once thin motor oil, or even a motor rebuild marketed for such problems.

If you own a diesel that has many years of use and one day started burning motor oil, you may have become alarmed by the development.

A quick check with friends suggest adding sticky additives, or a thicken oil, advertised for that purpose. These, you find, do not help much. Nor did such products end your motor’s power decline caused by oil burning negatives.

Before you learn of new oil burning control products that do work, here are things you should find helpful to ending your diesel engine oil burning condition.

Causes of diesel engine oil burning.

There are several reasons for your diesel oil burning problem and its oil consumption. Oil circulates to provide cooling and lubrication. One of the places oil goes to lube and cool is at your motor’s piston rings. Piston rings are loose-fitting bracelet-like parts that have two jobs.

  1. One function is to keep your motors 1500 degree combustion on top of your engine pistons so the forces of combustion push your engine down to spin the gears and wheels.
  2. The other function is to wipe away oil slashed on the pistons and their rings for needed lubrication.

Over time, piston rings become sticky, and along with wear spaces allow your crankcase motor oil to be sucked into the combustion cycle.

Between oil changes, oil loss can grow to a 4 quart replacement need. To much oil loss is no good for your engine, of course! That is your problem!

Remedies to end diesel oil burning problems.

A mechanic will suggest an engine overhaul, or a new motor, as choice for your oil consumption solution. Overhaul includes a rebuild of the upper part of your motor where engine valves are located and where engine valve slot wear can be a source of oil escape into the combustion area. And new piston rings and a clean up of related dirty conditions. The price is staggering! Cost can run from $3,000 to $7,000.

Another idea us mechanics have is to just replace your worn engine valve guides. And ignore replacement of new piston rings. The idea is that this repair would block your motor oil from going into the combustion area. That repair cost over $1500 up, and usually does not end oil burning.

How additives comes to the diesel oil burning problem rescue.

Since sticky piston rings are at fault, why not clean and free them with something called a tune up oil, with cleaning properties. Such tune-up oil products are not powerful enough to do so, and cannot operate at the 800 degree level of heat present around piston rings. They do not end the oil burn off problem.

Detergents are good cleaners, but have proved weak and unable to clean and free sticking piston rings and end oil’s escape.

Some people suggest using a sticky, honey-like product in hopes their glue-like nature can stop the flow of oil pass poor-functioning piston rings. These thick, gooey products do work when added to the motor’s oil. However, their larger molecule size and sticky nature may tend to slow or choke the oil’s ability to flow to the motors paper-thin size lube spaces. That is not good!

Chemical cleaners with anti-wear characteristics are gaining favor as these prove to clean and free sticky piston rings operating in near metal-melting temperatures. As their cleaning process continues, piston rings again flex outward in their up and down travel.

This renewed ring flexing ability again holds combustion above the piston area, and blocks oils escape to the burning process.

Further control to end a diesel engine oil burning problem is the method of cleaning of piston rings from both top and bottom of the piston. An advantage not gained by older oil additives.

Mega Power is an engine maintenance product brand using these chemical cleaners and conditioners that block oil’s escape, having none of the drawbacks older products sold have. Cost is under $100, not thousands. Their method’s success is a 2 step method installed for top of motor cleaning and freeing of your piston rings, This by addition to the fuel tank, air intake, and also your diesel motor oil side to free and clean. Driving does the actual work of freeing sticky piston rings. Any man or woman car owner can install the product – not just a mechanic. Learn more at

Ending Your Car Engine Sludge Problem: Remedies That Work!

Engine sludge formation. Here is how it gets in your motor. And a new, inexpensive way to remove sludge without the need to take your motor apart.

When your car is about 4 years old and older. When your car’s odometer miles run pass 75,000 miles, sticky residues; leftovers from pass oil changes, begin to build faster and gum-up your motors piston rings. Your motors dirty piston rings are the primary cause of sludge formation. It happens in this way.

Your motor’s pistons have 3, 1/8 inch thick flexible, bracelet-like rings that have a springy nature to them. This keeps them ever expanding outward to provide blockage to keep your motor oil from escaping into the combustion cycle. And keep your fuels combustion gases totally above the piston. Its all needed to push your piston down, spinning gears, and wheels to propel you forward with zip and ease. Sludge begins when…

Engine sludge formation occurs when your piston rings allows those1500 degree combustion gases to slip pass them. This happens when dirty piston ring flexing outward action is slowed or reduced. A gap appears and with each burst of new combustion, little puffs of combustion escape pass your pistons and mix with your motor oil.

Well anyhow, there is always some escape of combustion, called blowby by us mechanics, even when your pistons rings work perfectly well. When rings and cylinder wear spaces allow more combustion to escape, you sludge your motor oil in a month of driving and you, by motor design vent it to the outside world. That is no good for air, water, old folks and children with breathing problems.

To prevent your cars heavily loaded combustion gases; containing a handful of suphurs, 5 gallons of raw gas, carbon black, and dozens of other negatives from being dumped into the air every 3000 miles of driving, a device is made to block its escape. Instead it is channel back into the combustion process. This is done by a thumb size check valve and hoses in a new motor sub-system called the positive crankcase ventilation system.

The positive crankcase ventilation system is overpowered by all that sticky, hot blowby and soon chokes down the blowby flow. When that happens sludge formation goes bonkers, like kids during their first year on the loose at college. Kids party. Sludge forms a 1/4 inch layer over every part. Kids know better. your motor does not!

The fix: Soon, your car starts losing its zip. It may consume motor oil. It may tap. Your exhaust smells worst than than your kids tennis after soccer practice. Friction wear is now running rampant. The usual fix is an overhaul at $3000 or more. Or a partial cleaning called an engine valve repair at up to $2000 in cost. Its a nasty, time consuming job to take apart and clean every part.

Engine Flushing. You may have read about all kinds of flushing methods from stepping on two frogs, to putting automatic transmission fluid and solvent in your motor to clean out the sludge. parts stores even sell engine flushes, which are solvents to do the job.

The bad thing about solvent motor flushes is they strip your pistons, bearings, valves, and gears of their vital oil lube film as they rinse away the sludge. And some of that sludge, during circulation, reform in all the wrong places. Usually blocking your motor’s oil pump pickup screen. About a week of driving after such a cleaning, your motor goes in convulsions. The mechanic say, in diagnosis,”It’s shot!”

New products to safely remove sludge using anti-wear cleaners are what is needed, if engine sludge is your motor’s problem. A leader in the field for internal engine cleaning and sludge removal with engine restorative ingredients is Mega Power. The Mega Power Sludge Removing Worn Motor Treatment is fast, and takes less than a hour. Mega Power is safe because it has friction reducers that lube even without the presence of oil. and it removes sludge over a 6000 miles time span. Instant restorative power results. Cost is under $100 – not $3000. And you can install the treatment yourself. Nothing to take apart. Driving does the cleaning. You can learn more and get ordering info at: